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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 10:54 am 
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I'm going to be beginning a redwood/koa guitar for my wife soon. In thinking about how I'd like to dress it up and appoint it, a brown binding of some sort seems too rich, but ebony is a bit too stark for what I'm going for--a slate type color. Charcoal grey with a hint of brown, that kind of thing.

Do you think Macassar would be the way to go for binding, end piece, etc? Any other ideas?


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 11:06 am 
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Do you think Macassar would be the way to go for binding, end piece, etc? Any other ideas?

Yes, I just did one with Macassar. I used SuperSoft 2 to assist with the bending.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 11:14 am 
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Koa
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Walnut!


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 11:34 am 
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Ziricote!


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 12:00 pm 
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Wenge

Sent from my GT-P3113 using Tapatalk 4

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 12:14 pm 
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+1 on walnut.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 12:25 pm 
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How about low grade Indian rosewood? It can be pretty greyish colored sometimes. See if Allied has an orphan side you can slice up.

There's also ipe, but it's insanely hard, and probably hard to bend too.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 12:35 pm 
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Walnut or rosewood. Maybe even some dyed mahogany
You could try some baked maple... http://www.ukuleleunderground.com/forum ... aked+maple

I dunno how well it bends after baking though


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 12:42 pm 
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Ah! Some great ideas! Thanks, guys.

I want to stay away from the classic dalbergias. I've used a lot of ziricote and EIRW in the past, and it's a bit rich (in color) for what I'm after.

I'll definitely have to find some images of walnut appointments, or just get a bit of walnut and Macassar from LMI or something. I'm going to use some of my b/red/b purf, and maybe shell. Elegant and pretty without being over the top.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 12:50 pm 
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If walnut, you want the usual steamed, kiln dried walnut. Air dried will probably not have the grey you want.

I would test out the walnut, including putting some finish on it though. Steamed/kiln dried can have a slight purplish hue that you may or may not want.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 1:09 pm 
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A quality hardwood supplier should have their soft maple separated into two categories. Clear or stain grade and stained or "brown maple" which is sold to cabinet shops for paint grade work. I see lots of muted brown/grey in the brown maple. The brown staining is however not consistent through out but I would think you could find a section of the color and grain you are looking for large enough for bindings.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 1:11 pm 
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+1 on wenge

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 2:20 pm 
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How about African Blackwood. The samples I have seem more charcoal grey than black.

Glenn


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 2:47 pm 
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Glenn, good call. I have a few AFB headplates and would agree.

I have a wenge back/side set. It's beautiful. I can see that working, too.

Sometimes posting a question is definitely worth it.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 3:12 pm 
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https://www.gilmerwood.com/items.php?pa ... h&size=100

Halfway down (I make the page size 100 items per) is some figured shedua that looks like it would make some pretty nifty bindings...

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 7:18 pm 
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I was in the wood store the other day digging through the curly maple, and there was a lot of gray there. Don't know how it finishes.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 7:27 pm 
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I have seen some spalted sticks of holly that had a steely gray over a white undertone to it when finished. Perhaps this might make a nice contrast.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 10:19 pm 
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Peruvian Walnut


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 11, 2013 10:53 pm 
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Claro walnut can have some straight away gray mixed with brown if you are lucky enough to find a stash to look through. Beautiful stuff!


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